For over 15 years, we have been guiding climbers to the summit of Mount Shasta. With more than 70 successful summits, your guide Shane brings unmatched experience and knowledge of the mountain. Join us and see firsthand the difference a personally guided trip makes.

The Hotlum Bolam Ridge route is Mount Shasta’s most classic alpine climb. This route is a step up in difficulty from the Avalanche Gulch and Clear Creek routes. Situated on the remote north side of the mountain, this route offers a true wilderness experience and a beautiful direct line to the summit. It combines climbing on long aesthetic moraines, steep snow, and basalt gendarmes. This makes the route one of the most rewarding, and demanding, ways to climb Shasta.

This three day climb begins at the Northgate Trailhead at 7,000 feet. The approach ascends through rugged moraine to establish a high camp at approximately 9,800 feet. From there, the route follows a moraine which divides two of Shasta’s glaciers on the mountain, the Hotlum and the Bolam glaciers. The Hotlum Glacier is the largest glacier in the state of California.  Above the lower elevation moraines, the route then tackles steep alpine snow, an exposed ridge, and sometimes small sections of ice. Proficiency with crampons and ice axe is mandatory, and climbers must be prepared for sustained climbing at altitude. 

The north side of Shasta is remote and steeper than routes like Avalanche Gulch or Clear Creek. The summit day is long, yet for climbers who arrive prepared, the Hotlum Bolam Ridge delivers an unforgettable alpine experience. This is an excellent choice for climbers seeking a challenge in a spectacular alpine setting.

*For trips earlier in the season, consider checking out our Accelerated Mt Shasta Summit Climb. For trips on a more relaxed schedule, consider looking at our 3-Day Mt Shasta Summit Climb or Mt Shasta Summit Climb via Clear Creek trips.

All Trips Include:

• All mountaineering and overnight gear (except boots and clothing). Mountaineering boots can be rented locally if needed, from the 5th Season gear shop in Mt Shasta City.
• Technical equipment provided free of charge: crampons, climbing helmet, ice axe, harness, carabiners, adjustable hiking poles, mountaineering backpack, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, headlamp, insulated mug, water bottles, lightweight bowl, and utensils.
• Group camping gear including tents, stoves, and cooking equipment.
• Meals on the mountain: all breakfasts and dinners are included and prepared by your guide. Climbers are responsible for bringing their own snacks and supplemental food.
• Permits: USFS Mt. Shasta Summit Passes and Wilderness Permits are included.
• Human waste pack-out bags are provided and required for use in the Mt. Shasta Wilderness Area.

Itinerary:

Day 1 – Approach & High Camp
Meet at 7am in Mount Shasta City at Shastice Park for a gear check. After final preparations, we’ll drive to the Northgate Trailhead on the mountain’s north side. From there, we’ll begin the approach through forest and glacial moraine to establish a high camp around 9,800 feet, positioned for our summit push. In the afternoon, we’ll review crampon and ice axe skills before preparing dinner and resting early. 

Day 2 – Summit Attempt
Summit day begins around 2am with an alpine start. From camp, we ascend directly onto the Hotlum Bolam Ridge, climbing sustained snow slopes with increasing exposure as we gain altitude. The route weaves between rock and sometimes ice, with steep sections requiring careful footwork and steady endurance. Our target is to reach the summit by mid morning before descending thousands of vertical feet back to high camp by mid afternoon. Expect a long and strenuous day with significant elevation gain and loss.

Day 3 – Descent & Departure
After a hot breakfast, we’ll break down camp and retrace our approach back to the Northgate Trailhead. We aim to return to the trailhead by midday, completing one of Mount Shasta’s most memorable alpine routes. 

Documents for download: Detailed Trip Itinerary, Gear List